Asia, the places to visit.
The Temples of Angkor
1. Angkor Wat, Cambodia. The world’s largest religious monument and truly the eighth wonder of the world.
Colossal stone faces stare impassively across huge stone-built temples devoted to long-forgotten empires, now trailed by jungle creepers and pierced by the strangling roots of vast forest trees. This is the Angkor complex, the famous ‘lost city’ of the Khmers, the most astounding archaeological site in Asia and undoubtedly one of the world’s great photographic/travel highlights. The ancient relics of the Khmer culture and the mellow town centres bequeathed by French colonists co-exist with haunting memories of a generation lost to Pol Pot.
2. Krabi, Thailand. Arguably Asia’s best stretch of beach. Away from the tourist hordes of Phuket and Koh Samui its idyllic!
Splashed across every Thailand brochure is the stunning scenery of Krabi and its islands. Giant limestone cliffs, towering karst islands, gorgeous beaches and azure waters are all a trademark of Krabi. Offshore is the famous Phi Phi islands and many others like Koh Lanta, while Ao Nang Beach offers an excellent tourist base with its resorts and travel services for Krabi.
3. Kep, Cambodia. From the early 20th century through the 1960s, Kep was Cambodia's premier beach town, drawing weekend holiday-makers to its picturesque shores and sporting the ocean side villas of the privileged class. Nowadays, the old villas are in ruins, and the town is known more for its oceanfront seafood stalls than for its beaches, which are narrow and stony, offering just a few slivers of sand. For the moment at least, Kep has a real ‘out of the way’ feel to it - jungled mountains, empty beaches and few tourist services. The main road winds along the oceanfront, through the crab market and past small beaches and ritzy villas now crumbling in disrepair. Kep's current raison d'etre is fresh seafood, especially crab. No trip to Kep is complete without at least one seaside picnic.
Kep Lodge is a great place to stay, superb views, lovely pool and friendly service. Check it out.
The Kep Lodge, brand new spacious and comfortable thatched bungalows, set in lush tropical rain forest, bordering the Kep Mountain National Park. Want to explore this is the place do do it from.
Bokor National Park/Hill Station
Established by the French as a hill-station, Bokor had its heyday in the 1920s and since then has been abandoned twice, during World War II and the Khmer Rouge period. It was established as a national park in 1993 and spans four Cambodian provinces and despite substantial illegal logging, remains home to elephants and perhaps tigers.
The entire Bokor region saw fierce fighting between the Vietnamese and Khmer Rouge -- at one stage one side was holed up in the Catholic Church and the other in the casino -- all the while trying to shoot each other to pieces. Both buildings still bearing the scars today.
Walking through the crumbling casino/hotel and other buildings dotted across the Bokor ridge is a little spooky, particularly if one of the frequent mists roll in, but it's easy to imagine what it must have been like. When we visited we pulled up in front of the casino a mere 10 metres away, yet couldn't see it for the mist -- on clear days however the views are apparently spectacular.
At least one Vietnamese horror movie has been filmed on Bokor, along with the reasonably well-known Matt Dillon film City of Ghosts and we suspect more may be in the pipeline.
If time allows it's worth spending a night on Bokor, as even though the accommodation is only very basic (dorms), the food very limited (instant noodles) and the drink selection rather poor (warm beer), it is nevertheless an interesting, and very beautiful place to visit. The two-tier Popokvil Waterfall is certainly worth a trip to, though at 4-5km from the casino, it's best to have your own transport.
To get there, you can hire a 4WD from Kampot for around US$30 per day, which isn't too bad if you squeeze in four or five people. Kampot guesthouses also run trips in Toyota Camrys for $6-8 per person, or more if you're staying overnight. The national park accommodation is $5 per person and park admission is an additional $5 per person. The road is not good and should not be attempted by novice motorcyclists, but if you're patient you can do it on a Honda Dream.
Rabbit Island
Koh Tonsay or Rabbit Island is located about 4.5 Kilometers southwest of Kep. Tourists are drawn to the two beautiful white sand beaches. The sea here is shallow and has a long slope, making Koh Tonsay excellent for swimming. There is no electricity, so at night it is just you, your torch, perhaps a beach bonfire and about a million stars overhead.
Ko Tonsay, or Rabbit Island as it is commonly known as, is a lovely and truly idyllic little island that sits offshore from Kep, just thirty minutes away by hired boat.
Koh Tonsay is two square kilometers. In the 1960's it was used as a place to rehabilitate criminals, who were also used to defend the island. Horse cart paths and wooden, thatch roofed motels were also constructed during this time. Most of this infrastructure has been destroyed. Today, seven families live on the island. They earn their living by fishing and growing coconut trees.
Rabbit Island has become a popular daytrip for tourists. Within sight of land, this lushly forested spot has swimming and snorkeling opportunities. At the sea bottom area a variety of corals, sea animals and plants and is just a pleasant place to while away some time.
The main beach where the boats anchor in line with coconut palms, hammocks, lazy chairs and a handful of fresh seafood joints serving up some outstanding seafood -- it doesn't get fresher than here!
Kampot
Sleepy Kampot sits on the east bank of the Kampot River with spectacular views across to Bokor Mountain and the accompanying Elephant Mountains which make up the sizeable Bokor National Park.
The town was once a sizeable trading centre and until the establishment of a deep sea port at Sihanoukville in the 1950s, Kampot was Cambodia's primary port. While most of the larger vessels have moved on, there's still a smattering of small fishing boats that can be seen unloading every morning a short walk from town. Given Kampot's proximity to the Vietnamese border, fish often isn't the only catch being unloaded, with smuggling -- particularly of cigarettes -- a handy extra earner for the fishermen.
Today, Kampot is best known for its namesake Kampot pepper, which is truly excellent. Pepper aside, there's a few low-key sites that can be visited from town and it also forms in ideal base for trips up to Bokor, which is why the majority of foreign travellers find themselves here in the first place.
The town itself is both sleepy and pretty, in a rundown kind of way. There's plenty of villas and old shopfront trading houses, especially along the river road, that are pleasant to wander by -- thankfully Kampot hasn't lost too many of its older buildings to the glass and brass brigade. One hopes that given time and sufficient interest from travellers, many of these buildings will be retained.
Along with its relaxed ambience comes a host of friendly locals, an excellent selection of places to stay, from cheap backpacker-orientated guesthouses through to some fine flashpacker/mid-range hotels. There's also an excellent choice of places to eat and relax.
Within town, activities (aside from watching the sun set over Bokor) include taking a walk over the once-bombed but now repaired bridge for a view of the town, enjoying a sunset boat cruise up the Kampot River or just hiring a bicycle and meandering about.
A small but growing number of people are also attracted to Kampot to spend some time with a volunteer project. There's a range of options from teaching English to children through to longer-term projects working with disadvantaged groups within the community. Blissful Guesthouse and the Little Garden Bar Guesthouse are two good places to start with enquiries for more information.
Further afield, there's some caves located just off the road to Kep, some salt-fields, a small waterfall and, of course Bokor National Park -- a highlight of any visit to Cambodia's coast.
The People Improvement Organisation. (PIO)
Give the gift of a new future for these kids who struggle everyday to make the best of themselves.
Phnom Udong
The former capital of Cambodia from 1618 to 1866, Udong has been sacked by the Thais, bombed by the Americans and blown up by the Khmer Rouge. Despite this past, a new generation of Khmers have poured interest and money into trying to bring reason to the mayhem and the results form an excellent day trip from Phnom Penh, best done in the late afternoon for the spectacular sunsets.
Set astride a series of hillocks to the south of route 5, Phnom Udong is made up of a row of stupas and shrines in a variety of conditions that can be thoroughly explored at a comfortable pace in a couple of hours. On weekdays you could well have the entire site to yourself, but on weekends it can be quite busy with visitors and wedding parties from Phnom Penh.
Best approached from the north, your moto will most likely drop you at the base of the stairs toward the northern end of the hill, where there is a cluster of trinket shops and hordes of children who'll accompany you during your exploration.
The beggar-lined stairway (509 stairs) runs up to the newest addition to Phnom Udong: a glitzy modern temple home to a Buddha relic, previously housed in Phnom Penh. The attraction here is not so much the stupa as the view over the surrounds, which it breathtaking.
You can take a path that runs along the ridge allowing you to visit each of the sites without going downhill. The next stupa south, Chedi Damrei Sam Poan holds the remains of King Soriyopor). South again you'll reach Chedi Trai Trang , built by King Norodom to house the remains of his father King Ang Duong. It is distinctive for its yellow colour and four Bayon-style faces at the top. South again lies Chedi Mouk Pruhm, a fairly bland concrete affair holding the remains of King Monivong.
After this the trail rambles downhill then runs up to a series of four small chapel-like temples, all in fairly poor condition, but very popular with devotees. Of particular interest is the second one (running north to south) which contains a Buddha statue wearing four stars in an unusual military fashion. The last one contains a holy cow replica -- the original cow was apparently made of gold and stolen by the Thais after they sacked the area.
Last, and most impressive, are the remains of Arthaross temple, a massive enclosure which was badly damaged during the war and whose large Buddha image was blown up by the Khmer Rouge in 1977. All that remains of the Buddha is his lap and right torso and shoulder. Two rows of tall pillars which would have held a very high ceiling are also still left. According to legend, all the wealth of Cambodia was stored in a large cavern underneath Arthaross temple. Chinese visitors who saw the wealth returned home and reported that the Khmer state was a powerful and wealthy one and that should a giant naga emerge from the cavern, the Khmer people would rule the world. This worried the Chinese, who approached the Khmers and asked that a temple be built atop the cavern facing China (somehow this would protect China). The Khmer agreed and the temple was built - unusually facing north towards China (Buddha statues are normally build facing the east). It seems to have been a bad deal for the Khmer as they never got to rule the world -- no word on the whereabouts of the giant naga.
Transport
Phnom Udong is around 40km from Phnom Penh and is best reached by catching a Kompung Chhnang bound bus and hopping off at the turnoff at the 37km mark. The fare is 3,500 riel and the trip takes about one hour. From the turnoff, motodops will take you to the temple. They'll ask for $1, but you should be able to bargain them down (if you're a cheapskate!), and they'll be happy to return in a couple of hours to pick you up. Returning to Phnom Penh you can either flag down a bus, or take one of the share taxis that hang around at the junction. They'll charge around 3,000 riel to $1 per person back into town.
Takeo
The very small provincial town of Takeo can be pretty-much totally explored on foot in 30 minutes. Separated from the far busier NH3, Takeo feels like the provincial capital Cambodia forgot it had.
The town has a small waterfront area that faces east towards Vietnam and while it was once a bustling little port town, taking in volumes of trade (legal and otherwise) from Vietnam that would arrive by canal, much now takes the easier and cheaper route by land, leaving the port area a shadow of its former self.
Much of the substantial boat trade appears to have switched to Angkor Borei (which is far closer to Vietnam and from where there are good road connections onwards to Phnom Penh and elsewhere).
Outside of the waterfront area, there are a smattering of colonial villas dispersed across town, some of which are in surprisingly good condition, a lovely old wooden house that now houses the Red Cross, and in a small indication of the Khmer Rouge presence that was once here, Ta Mok has a glistening testament to his paranoia with a large house built to the north of town (reached by walking along an earthen levee and a footbridge).
These minor points aside, the sole remaining attractions here would be to visit some of the outlying villages -- easily done by moto or by boat (in wet season), and to drink a few warm beers at the Stung Takeo Restaurant while watching the waterside life.
A very low key and little visited town, Ta Keo would be worth an overnight stay if you have the time, but otherwise a trip out to Phnom Da and Angkor Borei merits at least consideration, as it can be done as a part of a long day trip from Phnom Penh -- the road to the Cambodian capital is sealed and in good condition.
Ko Kong
The provincial capital of Ko Kong Province is the arrival point for many foreign travellers en route to Cambodia due to the international border crossing with Thailand which lies a short distance from the town. A pretty dusty old affair, Ko Kong sits on the western bank of the Kah Bpow River -- a wide flowing river which is spanned by a spic-and-span Thai-financed bridge that you're welcome to drive across for an 11B toll (10B plus VAT).
While Ko Kong doesn't have much at all to offer in its own right, it does form a handy base for boat trips, waterfall and beach excursions. For a town of its size, it has a disproportionate number of western-managed bars which are primarily aimed at Thailand/Pattaya based expats on visa runs. One Ko-Kong regular describes the local expat scene as "rather Monty-Pythonesque", but regardless of your opinion, there's certainly not a shortage of places for a refreshing drink.
Along with the bars there's ample lodging options, both in the centre of town and down towards the river. Prices are quoted in Thai Baht, though payment will be accepted in Baht, Dollars and Riel.
With an overnight stay in Ko Kong you could visit a waterfall in the morning and an outlying beach in the afternoon before catching transport out of there the following morning -- that would be sufficient for many, though with more time, there's no shortage of beaches worth exploring -- just bear in mind the cost of getting to the beaches can get prohibitive if you're travelling alone.
In PHNOM PENH
Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum (S-21)
Tuol Sleng was a high school until the Khmer Rouge (KR) came to power in 1975, and decided to turn it into a prison and interrogation centre known as Security-21 (S-21). Prisoners were tortured, often over a period of months, to gain confessions of their so-called treachery against the state. Later, they were sent to the Choeung Ek killing field. Of the 17,000 who entered into the prison, only seven survived. Today the museum serves as a testament to how far mans inhumanity to man can sometimes reach. The KR abandoned the prison while retreating from the invading Vietnamese forces in January 1979 and the building has been largely left as it was found. Graves, clothing, foot shackles, and thousands of black and white photographs of the victims are on display. The KR kept extensive records of its activities, which is why you’ll see thousands of shocking and incriminating photos documenting the torture of the prisoners on many of the walls of the museum. There are also some paintings from one of the few survivors of S-21, Vann Nath, which depict acts of torture within the prison. A recommended documentary film on S-21 is also shown twice daily. Without question, a visit to S-21 is a thoroughly depressing but worthwhile lesson in history. Not too bad an idea to combine it with a visit to the Choeung Ek killing field (although you may find that you’ve seen enough already after visiting S-21).
How to get there:
Get to the corner of Street 113 & 350, $2 admission, open everyday from 8AM to 5PM
Wat Phnom
Wat Phnom is located on a small hill and is the legendary birthplace site of Phnom Penh. The story goes that a famous laywoman called Daun Penh built the hill and small Wat to house four sacred Buddha statues, which were found inside the trunk-hole of a floating Koki (teak) tree. The teak was also used to build the small temple. The area around the hill later became known as Phnom (meaning hill in Khmer) and Penh (its builder). The temple seen today was actually built in 1926. The ancient stupa (tomb) behind it contains King Ponhea Yat’s ashes (the ruler who actually abandoned Angkor in 1431). Visitors should not leave the site without visiting a memorial, which recalls the returning of three provinces from Thailand following its brief capture of them during World War II (located on the south side at the foot of the hill). The hill is generally covered and surrounded by tropical trees, which adequately represents the various kinds found throughout the country. They have also become home to many monkeys, birds and bats. Elephant rides are available around the base of Wat Phnom.
How to get there:
Wat Phnom is at the intersection of Street 96 and Norodom Blvd - $1 entry
Email me.
